Elie Saab: Nina Simone does Dynasty

By

Godfrey Deeny

Published
Sep 28, 2019

We witnessed the comeback of powerful beauty at Elie Saab, in a show that referenced African color, design and attitude.

An empowering collection, designed for self-assured women, with the focus being very much on evening. Staged inside a custom-built tent at the eastern end of the Pavillon Ledoyen, the show was backed up by a great soundtrack by Nina Simone, notably Funkier Than a Mosquito’s Tweeter and Sinnerman.
 
Elie’s invitation had telegraphed the theme with an abstract collage of summer. The same pattern used in one superb flowing silk dress, worn with a high priestess turban. As well as in a peak shoulder evening jacket with a handkerchief hem; a chiffon, deep-cut dress cinched at the waist; and even a final grand caftan.

Saab also referenced safari chic – with a brilliant Mogambo mode robe in beige faille cut at the top like a safari jacket. For day, he sent out dashing all-white suits, the jackets studded and trimmed with grommets. 

 
Elie accessorized everything with African beads, wooden bracelets, armbands and necklaces. Several models wore enormous Jackie Brown-worthy Afro wigs.
 
"It’s my homage to African beauty. I have quite a few clients from the continent and I am often impressed by their elegance," explained Saab in the backstage, after launching an African vision of Dynasty power chic.