Elie Saab’s dark glory

By

Godfrey Deeny

Published
Mar 3, 2018

A seductive Victorian mood at Elie Saab, romanticism leavened by temptation in a memorable display of dramatic fashion.

High necklines, infinite ruffles and a gentle silhouette recalled the 19th century restraint; while the sexy transparency, deep gorge cuts and off-the-shoulder chiffon blouses suggested that these Saab sisters have plenty of love interest.
 
The key color was black, seen in power crepe de chine grand soirée dresses; velvet blazers and crystal bow-encrusted mohair sweaters.

Saab, though, will always love a floral, which this season came in dense quantities of meadow flowers and petals, worthy of a Renoir painting, and used in a series of lightweight dresses. Though again, Saab toughened the attitude by adding in huge black leather Lonsdale belts.
 
Mingled into the mix, pearl-trimmed jean jacket made in power blue lambskin; shaggy fox capes; and slashed-up sexy widow dresses in panels of velvet, lace, cashmere and leather. And it being a holographic season in Paris, Saab even had 3D badges sewn onto ladylike jackets.
 
Worn on a sultry cast and backed up by an excellent soundtrack, the models marched out through a cloud of dry ice inside the Grand Palais. At the finale, after the entire cast posed in cumulus, the collection received an enormous ovation as Saab took his bow. Before disappearing out of the Grand Palais quietly.